Delhi Drivers, Narnaul's Akbar-Era Jal Mahal Stands in Water Again

By Nitin Kanish · 20 October 2026

For about ten years, Narnaul's Jal Mahal was a water palace with no water. The square tank around it had dried up, and the Mughal pavilion stood in a dusty basin. That changed this year. In August 2026, the Hindustan Times and The Tribune reported that the reservoir had been filled again, with roughly 170 million litres of water from rainwater and an irrigation canal, to a depth of about five feet. The pavilion once more appears to float, just as its builder intended in 1591.

Narnaul is about 150 km from central Delhi, on the edge of Haryana near the Rajasthan border. That is too far for a casual afternoon, but it works well as a full day by car, with a stop at Rewari's heritage steam loco shed on the way. This guide covers the route, the timings and what to see. If you are ready to go, book a self-drive car in Delhi and plan for an early start.

Why the Jal Mahal is worth the drive this season

The Jal Mahal was built by Shah Quli Khan, the governor of Narnaul under the emperor Akbar. Its foundation inscription gives the year 999 AH, which is 1591 CE. The Haryana Archaeology and Museums Department, in its book The Splendours of Narnaul, describes a pavilion in the middle of a large square tank, reached by a bridge resting on sixteen arched spans. A second inscription praises the tank as "a second Kausar" (a river of paradise) and the palace as "like the garden of Iram". It was a summer retreat, built to catch the cool breeze off the water.

For years the tank held little or nothing. According to the Hindustan Times report of 19 August 2026, Haryana's Buildings and Roads and Irrigation departments restored the water channels, built protection and boundary walls around the reservoir and repaired the surroundings. The main work began in 2023–24, and the project cost about ₹70 lakh. The newspaper also reported that the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) will maintain the water body in future, and that the district administration is exploring evening music and cultural events, subject to approvals. The monument itself is protected by the ASI as a monument of national importance.

Amar Ujala reported on 27 September 2026 that the Jal Mahal now draws about 2,500 visitors a month. Before the water came back, it saw only 20 to 25 a day. The same report said that the restoration of Chor Gumbad was complete, and that work on Birbal ka Chhatta, Ibrahim Khan Sur's tomb and Mirza Alijan's baoli was under way.

When you visit, follow the Deputy Commissioner's advice reported by The Tribune: enjoy the views from a safe distance and stay away from the edges of the reservoir.

The route from Delhi to Narnaul

Leave Delhi on NH48 through Gurugram, turn off for Rewari, and then follow NH11 south-west to Narnaul. On the way back, you can come straight up the same road. Our map routing gives these distances:

• Central Delhi to Rewari: about 89 km, roughly an hour and a quarter in clear traffic. Leaving the city on a weekday morning can take longer.
• Rewari to Narnaul: about 59 km on NH11, roughly 45 minutes to an hour.
• Around Narnaul: the Jal Mahal and Chor Gumbad are about 4 km apart, and the tombs are in the old town between them. Allow 10 to 15 km of town driving.
• Narnaul back to central Delhi: about 145 km, roughly two hours by map routing. In practice, evening traffic on NH48 near Gurugram can add an hour or more.

That makes about 300 km in all, nearly all of it on highways. If you want a shorter outing, our guide to Bhindawas and the Jhajjar tombs from Rohtak covers another heritage and wetland loop in Haryana.

Stop 1: the Rewari heritage steam loco shed

Rewari was once a major railway town. According to the Rewari Steam Loco Shed's own website, the shed opened in 1893, and the first metre-gauge track in India was laid between Rewari and Delhi in 1873. Rewari became one of the biggest junctions on the metre-gauge network, and the shed once housed more than 100 locomotives. It closed in 1993, when steam was retired. The Minister of Railways declared it a heritage steam shed in 2002, and a full makeover began in February 2010. The site says the shed received a National Tourism Award in 2012.

The Rewari district administration calls it the only surviving steam loco shed in India, and says the Fairy Queen, built in 1855, was restored here. The shed's website lists the engines in its care, including the Fairy Queen, broad-gauge engines named Azad, Ashoka and Angadh, and metre-gauge engines such as Sultan, Sahib and Rewari King. Not every engine is on display every day, so ask at the counter.

Here are the practical details from the shed's website:

• Timings: Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 4 pm. Closed on Mondays and national holidays. The site notes that the schedule can change.
• Tickets: sold only at the shed's counter. Entry is ₹10 for adults and ₹5 for children aged 3 to 12. Extras include a film show (₹20), the steam museum (₹20), a steam simulator (₹25), a coach simulator (₹50) and a toy train (₹50), at adult rates.
• Location: Railway Colony, Rewari. The district page puts it about 400 metres north of the entrance to Rewari railway station.

An hour to an hour and a half is enough. Arrive soon after 9 am, and you will be on the road to Narnaul before late morning.

Stop 2: the Jal Mahal, Narnaul

Drive to the Jal Mahal first, while the light is still good. The pavilion has a square central hall with double-storeyed chambers at the corners, an octagonal main dome and smaller cupolas, according to The Tribune. The Splendours of Narnaul notes the painted designs on the domed ceiling of the central room, which it links to Rajput practice of the period, and the geometric patterns in red on the facade. Walk out along the causeway if it is open, and look back at the arches reflected in the water.

We could not find an official timetable or ticket price for the Jal Mahal online. Plan to visit in daylight and follow any notices at the gate. Keep the site clean and do not climb on the structure.

Stop 3: Ibrahim Khan Sur's tomb

Narnaul has a surprising link to the emperor who drove the Mughals out of Delhi for fifteen years. The Splendours of Narnaul says that Sher Shah Suri is said to have been born in Narnaul, and that his grandfather Ibrahim Khan Sur served there under the Lodis. Ibrahim died in Narnaul. After Sher Shah defeated Humayun and took the throne in 1540, he ordered a tomb over his grandfather's grave. Haryana Tourism dates the tomb to 1540–45 and notes that it is protected by the Government of India.

The tomb is a fine example of the square Pathan or Afghan style. It stands on a high platform, built in grey stone with bands and panels of red sandstone. There are small octagonal cupolas at the corners of the terrace, and inscriptions over the doorways name the superintendent of works, Abu Bakr Kindi. Remember that the Amar Ujala report listed this tomb among the sites still being restored, so parts may be under scaffolding.

Stop 4: Shah Quli Khan's tomb and the Tripolia gate

The man who built the Jal Mahal is buried in Narnaul too. According to The Splendours of Narnaul, Shah Quli Khan was governor of Narnaul for 42 years under Akbar. The book says his arrow struck Hemu in the eye at the Second Battle of Panipat (1556), the turning point of that battle. His tomb is octagonal, in grey stone with red sandstone panels and a white dome, and its inscription dates it to 1574–75. The same book suggests that its design may have been inspired by buildings such as the Sher Mandal in Delhi's Purana Qila.

Nearby is the Tripolia, a three-storeyed gateway Shah Quli Khan built in 1588–89, with painted floral designs inside.

Stop 5: Chor Gumbad and Birbal ka Chhatta

Finish on the north side of town at Chor Gumbad. Haryana Tourism says it was built by an Afghan named Jamal Khan as his own tomb, probably during the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq (1351–88). It stands on a rocky hill and can be seen from far away, which is why locals call it the "signboard of Narnaul". The name means "thieves' dome", because it is said to have been a hideout for robbers. The hill around it has been made into a park, and Amar Ujala reported that its restoration is now complete.

If time allows, look at Birbal ka Chhatta from outside. Haryana Tourism says this five-storeyed mansion was built by Rai Mukand Das, the diwan of Narnaul, in the reign of Shah Jahan. Local legend says Akbar and Birbal visited the town, which is how the building got its popular name, and that tunnels from it lead to Jaipur, Mahendragarh, Delhi and Dhosi. With restoration under way, you may only see the outside.

Coming back later? Amar Ujala reported that a ₹57 crore ropeway is being built at Dhosi hill, about 10 km from the Jal Mahal and linked in tradition to the sage Chyavana, with a target of Diwali 2027.

A suggested day plan

• 6:45 am: pick up the car in Delhi and head out on NH48 before the rush.
• 8:15 am: breakfast in Rewari.
• 9 to 10:30 am: the heritage steam loco shed (any day except Monday).
• 11:45 am: arrive at the Jal Mahal in Narnaul.
• 1 pm: lunch in Narnaul.
• 2 to 3:45 pm: Ibrahim Khan Sur's tomb, Shah Quli Khan's tomb and the Tripolia, then Chor Gumbad.
• 4 pm: leave for Delhi so that most of the drive is in daylight. Expect to be back between 6:30 and 7:30 pm, depending on traffic near Gurugram.

Want the Jal Mahal in morning light instead? Go to Narnaul first and stop at Rewari on the way back, but leave Narnaul by about 2:30 pm, because the shed closes at 4 pm.

Tips for the drive

• Check the air quality: late October is the start of the pollution season in the National Capital Region. CAQM revised its Graded Response Action Plan on 29 September 2026. Before you leave, check the stage in force on the CAQM website and the day's AQI on the SAMEER app.
• Fuel: the Delhi page says fuel is not included. You get the car with some fuel to start, refuel as you go and return it at the agreed level. Fill up before Rewari and again in Narnaul if needed.
• Tolls: there are toll plazas on the highway, so ask at pickup how tolls are handled for your car.
• Documents: carry your original driving licence. The Delhi page lists a minimum age of 21, with digital KYC done in the Hire N Ride app or on the website before the trip.
• Night driving: try to do most of the drive home in daylight, and take a break if you feel tired.

Choosing your car

The whole route is on highways and town roads, so any of the cars on the Delhi page will do. On 20 October 2026, the Hire N Ride Delhi page listed four self-drive cars. The lowest one-day rate was ₹2,117, for a Hyundai Grand i10 Nios (petrol, manual). A Honda Amaze was ₹2,799, a Maruti Suzuki Dzire with an automatic gearbox was ₹3,000, and a seven-seat Kia Carens was ₹4,499. Each listing showed a ₹5,000 security deposit. Rates and availability change, so check the live page before you book.

Looking for more long day drives from the capital? Our guide to Kurukshetra by car from Delhi heads north on NH44, and our Sariska and Siliserh drive from Gurugram goes into the Aravallis on the Rajasthan side.

Conclusion: see it while the water is in

The Jal Mahal was built to stand in water, and after about a decade it does again. Add a morning among steam engines at Rewari and an afternoon among the tombs of a Sur king's grandfather and Akbar's governor, and you have one of the best heritage days within reach of Delhi. With a self-drive car rental in Delhi, you can set the pace, stop where you like and be home the same night.

Ready to go? Book a self-drive car in Delhi, choose any day from Tuesday to Sunday, and be at Rewari by 9 am.

About the author: Nitin Kanish writes road-trip and self-drive guides for Hire N Ride. He checks routes, official timings and the latest local news, so renters know what is open before they set off.